Cheval Blanc 1983, Saint-Emilion, France

The 1983 Cheval Blanc, which incidentally was served from magnum, has consistently been one of the standout wines of the vintage. Here is one of the finest examples that I have encountered. Sure, its age can no longer be disguised thanks to its tawny-rimmed hue, but the aromatics burst full of red fruit, cigar box, beef stock and tobacco scents that immediately capture your senses. The palate is medium-bodied and very well balanced, underpinned by a keen line of acidity. There is so much freshness here after 30 years and yet it does not begrudge or disguise its age. Even from magnum, you feel that it is approaching the end of its drinking plateau, however there is still so much pleasure to be gained. Maintaining its savory core of fruit and meatiness, this remains a wonderful Cheval Blanc. Tasted March 2015.

WA 94